Tenterfield: Saddles, Pies and Country Charm
The road from Ballina to Tenterfield is a drive that deserves to be taken at a leisurely pace. It winds through lush hinterland, climbs into misty ranges, and eventually drops you into the kind of country town that feels proudly Australian in all the best ways.
We set up camp at a camp just outside of town, surrounded by open paddocks and crisp mountain air. Evenings were cool enough for jackets again, which was a (somewhat) welcome change after the coastal humidity, and mornings came with that smell of gum leaves and wood smoke that only country towns get right.
In town, we wandered the wide streets lined with heritage buildings, pausing to explore the famous Tenterfield Saddler. The little sandstone shop, made iconic by Peter Allen’s song, still holds a quiet nostalgia. Looking through the windows feels like looking at a living postcard. Old leatherwork, timber counters polished by years of hands, and stories stitched into every corner.
Our next stop was the bakery, and honestly, it deserves a song of its own. Neil declared the Tenterfield chicken pie his favourite in Australia, and that’s no small claim! Golden crust, proper filling, and just the right amount of sauce. We may have gone back the next day…purely for research purposes, of course.
Tenterfield will reward curious wandering. There’s a heritage walking trail through town, leading past grand old buildings, historic pubs, and the Sir Henry Parkes School of Arts Museum, where Australia’s Federation story really took shape. Out of town, the Tenterfield Railway Museum gives a glimpse into the region’s transport history, and if you’ve got a bit of time, the Mount Mackenzie Scenic Drive offers sweeping views back across the tablelands.
We didn’t make it to everything, as we were on a little bit of a time crunch, but Tenterfield left us with full stomachs, lighter hearts, and another reason to keep chasing the little towns that make the long drives worthwhile.
Tenterfield
Tenterfield sits in the Northern Tablelands of New South Wales, not far from the Queensland border. Known for its Federation history, crisp mountain air, and warm country welcome, it’s a small town with a big story.
How to Get There
Tenterfield lies about 280 km southwest of Brisbane or 170 km inland from Ballina via the Bruxner Highway. The drive winds through scenic ranges — sealed all the way and motorhome-friendly, if a little twisty in spots.
What to See and Do
Tenterfield Saddler – Step inside the historic sandstone shop made famous by Peter Allen.
Sir Henry Parkes School of Arts Museum – Learn about the birthplace of Australian Federation.
Tenterfield Railway Museum – Restored carriages and railway history galore.
Mount Mackenzie Scenic Drive – A 25 km loop with beautiful views of the ranges.
Bald Rock National Park – Climb Australia’s largest granite monolith (dogs not allowed, sadly).
Tenterfield Bakery – Home of Neil’s favourite pies in Australia — we stand by that.
When to Visit
Autumn and spring bring mild days and cool nights, perfect for exploring. Winters can be chilly, sometimes even frosty, while summer sees the countryside glowing gold.
Final Thoughts
Tenterfield is not just a dot on the map; it’s a town stitched together with stories, from saddlers and settlers to songwriters and travellers. We came for a short stop, left with pie crumbs on our shirts, and a soft spot for this little highland gem.
What’s Nearby
From Tenterfield, we continued south along the New England Highway toward Glen Innes, a town renowned for its Celtic charm, cool climate, and standing stones.
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Fast Facts
Location: Northern Tablelands, New South Wales
Distance: ~280 km from Brisbane
Traditional Owners: Jukambal and Ngarabal People
Access: Fully sealed roads, suitable for motorhomes
Facilities: Showgrounds, caravan parks, cafés, pubs, supermarkets
Walking Track: Heritage walking trail, Mount Mackenzie lookout
Best Time to Visit: March–May or September–November
Dog Friendly: Yes, except National Parks
Things That Could Kill You (Probably Won’t)
A semi-serious guide to surviving Australia. Mostly common sense, occasionally luck.
Magpies: Swoop with surgical precision. Sunglasses recommended.
Pies: Too good. May cause commitment issues.
Heritage Buildings: Hard to resist photographing from every possible angle.
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