Outback Roads and Red Dust

North of Townsville, two faces of the wet tropics: Big Crystal Creek, a clear rainforest swimming hole, and Wallaman Falls, Australia’s tallest single-drop waterfall, plunging 269 metres into a misty gorge.

A slow guide to Townsville, North Queensland: Castle Hill views, the Strand, Queensland Museum Tropics, the RAAF Museum, and a dog-friendly wander at the Palmetum.

A 2010 camping trip with my dad into the outback: Mungo’s Walls of China, the Birdsville Track cut by a flooded Cooper Creek, the government punt, and Lake Eyre holding water. The trip that started everything.

The heat sent Zoe (and us) east, and Hughenden was the perfect stop: a free RV camp, Hughie the Muttaburrasaurus, town street art, and a coolibah tree blazed by explorers hunting Burke and Wills.

Most people drive through Batchelor on the way to Litchfield. Stop, and you find a miniature Czech castle built by a homesick miner, a Cold War uranium mine, and a wartime airfield with a famous visitor.

Between Mount Isa and Cloncurry sit the empty streets of Mary Kathleen, a uranium mining town built in the 1950s, sold off entirely at auction in 1983, and now a ghostly grid of slabs and silence. Perfect for camping!

A chain of World War Two airstrips lines the Stuart Highway on the run to Darwin. We stopped at Strauss and Gorrie, once the country's biggest airbase, and drove past the rest, each named for a lost pilot.

We drove to Fogg Dam near Darwin expecting a few ducks and found hundreds of birds, three crocodiles, and two tourists we probably saved from becoming breakfast on the closed, croc-lined dam wall.

We broke the curse the only way we could, by cheating and flying. A doorless chopper, sandstone towers older than almost anything on earth, and a walk through a Lost City with no one else in sight.

Every expedition needs a curse, and ours began the moment we left Mount Isa chasing the Lost Cities. Plagues of bugs, biblical rain, a brutal road, and a mysterious rash.

Three days out to Boulia via Poddy Creek and the Middleton Hotel, the Min Min Encounter, outback sunsets and no actual Min Min sightings. Then north to a spectacular free camp at Dajarra Dam on the way to Mount Isa.

After three visits, here's what we'd actually send a friend to do in Longreach! Qantas history, outback rail and river tours, and a stockman's show. Not everything, just our favourites.

Back in Longreach for our third visit. Outback rail adventures, a sunset cruise on the Thomson River, the Longreach Races, new Akubras, and the friendliest welcome yet.

The Matilda Way is a 1,900-kilometre touring route from Bourke in New South Wales to Karumba on the Gulf of Carpentaria, passing through the heart of outback Queensland via Charleville, Longreach and Winton.

Blackall’s Historical Woolscour is the only surviving steam-powered woolscour in Australia, operating since 1908. Add Jackie Howe’s unbroken shearing record and a free camp on the Barcoo River, and you have one of outback Queensland’s best stops.

Tambo delivers more than it advertises — Tambo Teddies and a station side quest, chicken races that got out of hand, and the site of Qantas’s first fatal crash in 1927. A small town with a lot going on.

Four visits to Charleville and still finding new things — the Angellala Creek explosion site, the Airfield Museum, the Bureau of Meteorology weather balloon and the WWII quarry that built the airport runways.

From the Cosmos Centre and Bilby Experience to the Airfield Museum, WWII Secret Base, Outback Date Farm, and the Angellala Creek explosion site. There’s a lot going on!

Halfway between Cunnamulla and Charleville, Wyandra is a quiet railway town on the Warrego River with a sandy beach, outback burgers, a peaceful camp and sunsets good enough for a calendar cover.

An overnight pub camp at Enngonia, then north to Cunnamulla; the Robbers Tree, the All Aboard rail show, a day at the races for Neil and artesian hot springs for Cameron. A weekend well spent.

Five rain-soaked days at Nyngan Weir and then north to Bourke, the Darling River’s great port, Fred Hollows’ resting place, an Afghan mosque in the outback, and a town that rewards anyone who slows down.

From Melbourne via Warrnambool and St Arnaud to Hay, a town that keeps earning return visits. Free camping on the Murrumbidgee, a gaol with many lives, and one of regional NSW’s most joyful festivals.

From buffalo chicken pizza to desert sculptures and Silverton’s donkeys, Broken Hill gave us art, weather, and classic outback humour in equal measure. It’s a place that surprises every time — dust storms included.

From Nyngan’s riverside calm to Cobar’s quiet bush camp and the long road to Broken Hill, this stretch of outback NSW is a reminder that sometimes, the in-between days are the best ones.

A weekend stop in Biloela for new windscreens turned into a laid-back escape. Between Heritage Park, Callide Dam, and country charm, this Central Queensland town proved that even repair days can feel like holidays.

Emerald is Central Queensland’s great reset town. A practical crossroads with everything you need, plus dog parks, gardens, murals and mosaic trails, it’s the place travellers refuel before heading deeper into the outback.

Five hours of potholes, rattles, and questionable suspension from Charters Towers to Emerald reminded us that not every road is smooth.

Charters Towers caught us off guard — a planned two-night stop turned into four days of gold-rush history, quirky landmarks, tyre trouble and small surprises!

1,090km of Flinders and Barkly Highway, from the coast at Townsville to the NT border at Camooweal. Gold rush towns, dinosaur country and the birthplace of the RFDS, all on sealed road.