Armidale: Books, Markets and Cold Mornings
After a few fast days on the road, Armidale was exactly what we needed. Calm and tidy, but a little bit chilly. We rolled into the showgrounds and found it a perfect base, just a short walk from town. The sites were level, the showers almost hot, and Zoe learnt to sidestep the prickles.
We hit the Saturday markets first, packed with fresh produce, handmade crafts, and a country friendliness that slows your stride without noticing. Cameron was in his element, disappearing into not one but several bookshops around town. After weeks in Queensland’s bookshop drought, this was a much-needed fix. He came back grinning, arms full, already rearranging the motorhome shelves to make room. Neil just rolled his eyes!
Armidale itself is full of old-world charm with wide streets lined with deciduous trees, handsome old buildings, and just enough bustle to feel alive. We spent time wandering the main street, ducking into cafés, and chatting with shop owners who were only too happy to share their local favourites.
One of our highlights was visiting Saumarez Homestead, just outside town. The historic property is beautifully kept, and its gardens are a peaceful place to wander, even if you’re not a history buff. We learnt about the early pastoral days of the region and the White family who lived there for more than a century. The volunteers who care for the place clearly love its story, and by the end of our visit, so did we.
We’d planned to explore the University of New England too, but it turned out to be graduation weekend, resulting in a sea of gowns, proud families, and no parking for kilometres. So we settled for adding it to the list for next time.
That same list now includes the Waterfall Way. Dangars Falls, Wollomombi, and the other cascades are scattered through the nearby national parks. Because of Zoe, we skipped them this time, but they’re firmly bookmarked for when we come back through.
For us, Armidale was a gentle pause, with slow days and short walks, where good books, good markets, and good manners still rule the pace.
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Armidale
Set high on the New England Tablelands, Armidale is a mix of heritage, culture, and country ease. With grand architecture, seasonal gardens, and a creative community, it’s one of those inland towns that’s quietly full of surprises.
How to Get There
Located on the New England Highway, Armidale sits roughly halfway between Sydney and Brisbane. It’s easily accessible via sealed roads, with caravan-friendly parking and excellent services.
Tours and Access
What we did:
Camped at the Armidale Showgrounds, a comfortable base close to town.
Explored the Saturday markets and several local bookshops.
Wandered the gardens of Saumarez Homestead and learnt about local history.
Other highlights you might explore:
Follow the Waterfall Way to see Wollomombi and Dangars Falls.
Visit the New England Regional Art Museum (NERAM) for a taste of local art.
Take a scenic drive through Cathedral Rock or Oxley Wild Rivers National Parks.
Explore the Heritage Walk through the city centre.
Best Time to Visit
Autumn and spring are ideal, when the trees turn gold or bloom with colour. Winter mornings can be crisp, but clear days make for perfect exploring.
Final Reflections
Armidale felt like a deep breath after the coast. Calm, cultured, and quietly confident. It’s a town that makes you want to linger a little longer, if only to finish one more chapter before you hit the road again.
What’s Nearby
From Armidale, the road west rolls out toward Tamworth, while heading north leads back into Queensland through Tenterfield. Either way, the countryside stretches wide and green.
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Fast Facts
Location: Armidale, New England Tablelands, New South Wales
Distance: 485 km north of Sydney, 470 km south of Brisbane
Traditional Owners: Anaiwan People
Access: Fully sealed via New England Highway and Waterfall Way
Facilities: Shops, supermarkets, caravan parks, cafes, pubs, hospital, museums, visitor centre
Walking Track: Heritage Walk, Saumarez Homestead gardens, nearby Waterfall Way lookouts
Dog Friendly: Permitted at showgrounds and public areas (leashed)
Best Time to Visit: March – May and September – November
Things That Could Kill You (Probably Won’t)
A semi-serious guide to surviving Australia. Mostly common sense, occasionally luck.
Bookshops: May cause luggage overweight issues. Proceed with restraint.
Winter Mornings: Frosty. Keep a jumper and your sense of humour handy.
Waterfall Temptation: They’ll still be there next time — we promise.
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Armidale gave us cool mornings, friendly markets, and the joy of finding real bookshops again. With gardens, heritage, and country calm, it’s the kind of inland town that makes you want to stay a little longer.