Bays and Backroads
The Shakedown Trip- Part Four
Leaving Bermagui, we took the coastal road north with the sea always half-glimpsed through the trees. The drive to Batemans Bay wasn’t long, but it gave us time to settle into the rhythm of travel — no rush, no big distances, just the hum of tyres and the promise of another bay ahead.
We wound our way past Narooma, stopping at a lookout where the water was so blue it didn’t look real. We stayed a bit too long, and morning tea turned into lunch before we knew it. Further along, Mystery Bay lived up to its name — quiet, beautiful, and just remote enough to make you feel like you’d earned it.
By the time we rolled into Batemans Bay, the late light was soft over the Clyde River and the air smelt faintly of salt and chips. We found a spot near the water and stayed longer than we planned. It was the kind of stay where not much happened, and that’s the whole point. A walk along the foreshore, a chat with other travellers, a sunset that made us forget what day it was.
We’d started to find our groove by now. With less fuss about routines, more trust in the road. The cupboards stayed shut, Zoe settled quicker, and even Neil stopped complaining about levelling ramps. We were beginning to travel more like locals and less like learners, which, after a few weeks on the move, felt like progress.
If you like stories from the bays and backroads, sign up for our travel dispatches here. We’ll keep you company on the next leg north.
Bermagui to Batemans Bay
A stretch of the New South Wales coast where every bend hides another beach, another café, and another reason to stay put a little longer.
How to Get There
Take the Princes Highway north from Bermagui through Narooma, Mystery Bay, and Moruya, following the coastline all the way to Batemans Bay. It’s about 130 kilometres and takes around two and a half hours if you’re not in a hurry — and you shouldn’t be. The road is sealed, scenic, and perfect for a motorhome.
Tours and Access
What we did:
Stopped at Narooma for dolphin spotting and a slow lunch.
Wandered along Mystery Bay and its quiet coves.
Camped near the Clyde River in Batemans Bay.
Spent lazy afternoons walking, chatting, and watching the light change.
Other highlights you might explore:
Take a river cruise or hire a kayak in Batemans Bay.
Visit the Eurobodalla Regional Botanic Gardens just inland.
Best Time to Visit
Autumn and spring are best, with calm weather and fewer crowds. Summers are lively, winters are peaceful, and the sea’s never far away either way.
Final Reflections
This stretch of coast taught us that travel doesn’t always need a destination. Sometimes it’s just the small things like the sound of waves through the motorhome window, a good feed of fish and chips, and a cool stretch of road that makes you forget what’s next.
What’s Nearby
From Batemans Bay, the road turns inland toward Canberra, where city errands and cooler nights wait on the horizon. It’s a shift from sand to gum trees, from sea breeze to frost on the windscreen — but that’s part of the journey.
If you’re following along with our shakedown trip, join our travel dispatches here to see where the road leads next.
Fast Facts
Location: South Coast, New South Wales
Distance: Bermagui to Batemans Bay – 130 km
Traditional Owners: Yuin People
Access: Sealed coastal highways via Princes Highway
Facilities: Campgrounds, cafés, groceries, fuel, dog-friendly beaches
Walking Track: Coastal walks at Mystery Bay and Batemans Bay foreshore
Dog Friendly: Yes, most beaches and parks
Best Time to Visit: Autumn or spring
Other updates you may like…
North of Townsville, two faces of the wet tropics: Big Crystal Creek, a clear rainforest swimming hole, and Wallaman Falls, Australia’s tallest single-drop waterfall, plunging 269 metres into a misty gorge.
A slow guide to Townsville, North Queensland: Castle Hill views, the Strand, Queensland Museum Tropics, the RAAF Museum, and a dog-friendly wander at the Palmetum.
It's official: Off the Main Road is now a magazine. The Outback Edition launches mid-August, print and digital.
A 2010 camping trip with my dad into the outback: Mungo’s Walls of China, the Birdsville Track cut by a flooded Cooper Creek, the government punt, and Lake Eyre holding water. The trip that started everything.
The heat sent Zoe (and us) east, and Hughenden was the perfect stop: a free RV camp, Hughie the Muttaburrasaurus, town street art, and a coolibah tree blazed by explorers hunting Burke and Wills.
Most people drive through Batchelor on the way to Litchfield. Stop, and you find a miniature Czech castle built by a homesick miner, a Cold War uranium mine, and a wartime airfield with a famous visitor.
Between Mount Isa and Cloncurry sit the empty streets of Mary Kathleen, a uranium mining town built in the 1950s, sold off entirely at auction in 1983, and now a ghostly grid of slabs and silence. Perfect for camping!
A chain of World War Two airstrips lines the Stuart Highway on the run to Darwin. We stopped at Strauss and Gorrie, once the country's biggest airbase, and drove past the rest, each named for a lost pilot.
Our airboat trip with Northern Territory Airboats gave us a fast look at the Bynoe wetlands. Crocodiles on the banks, birdlife across the floodplains and a guide who knew the country well. A relaxed Top End wildlife experience.
We drove to Fogg Dam near Darwin expecting a few ducks and found hundreds of birds, three crocodiles, and two tourists we probably saved from becoming breakfast on the closed, croc-lined dam wall.
We broke the curse the only way we could, by cheating and flying. A doorless chopper, sandstone towers older than almost anything on earth, and a walk through a Lost City with no one else in sight.
Every expedition needs a curse, and ours began the moment we left Mount Isa chasing the Lost Cities. Plagues of bugs, biblical rain, a brutal road, and a mysterious rash.
Three days out to Boulia via Poddy Creek and the Middleton Hotel, the Min Min Encounter, outback sunsets and no actual Min Min sightings. Then north to a spectacular free camp at Dajarra Dam on the way to Mount Isa.
After three visits, here's what we'd actually send a friend to do in Longreach! Qantas history, outback rail and river tours, and a stockman's show. Not everything, just our favourites.
Back in Longreach for our third visit. Outback rail adventures, a sunset cruise on the Thomson River, the Longreach Races, new Akubras, and the friendliest welcome yet.
The Matilda Way is a 1,900-kilometre touring route from Bourke in New South Wales to Karumba on the Gulf of Carpentaria, passing through the heart of outback Queensland via Charleville, Longreach and Winton.
Blackall’s Historical Woolscour is the only surviving steam-powered woolscour in Australia, operating since 1908. Add Jackie Howe’s unbroken shearing record and a free camp on the Barcoo River, and you have one of outback Queensland’s best stops.
Tambo delivers more than it advertises — Tambo Teddies and a station side quest, chicken races that got out of hand, and the site of Qantas’s first fatal crash in 1927. A small town with a lot going on.
Four visits to Charleville and still finding new things — the Angellala Creek explosion site, the Airfield Museum, the Bureau of Meteorology weather balloon and the WWII quarry that built the airport runways.
From the Cosmos Centre and Bilby Experience to the Airfield Museum, WWII Secret Base, Outback Date Farm, and the Angellala Creek explosion site. There’s a lot going on!
Halfway between Cunnamulla and Charleville, Wyandra is a quiet railway town on the Warrego River with a sandy beach, outback burgers, a peaceful camp and sunsets good enough for a calendar cover.
An overnight pub camp at Enngonia, then north to Cunnamulla; the Robbers Tree, the All Aboard rail show, a day at the races for Neil and artesian hot springs for Cameron. A weekend well spent.
The Kidman Way is a 644-kilometre sealed touring route through inland NSW, from Jerilderie in the south to Barringun on the Queensland border. Named after the 'Cattle King', it passes through Griffith, Cobar and Bourke.
Five rain-soaked days at Nyngan Weir and then north to Bourke, the Darling River’s great port, Fred Hollows’ resting place, an Afghan mosque in the outback, and a town that rewards anyone who slows down.
From Melbourne via Warrnambool and St Arnaud to Hay, a town that keeps earning return visits. Free camping on the Murrumbidgee, a gaol with many lives, and one of regional NSW’s most joyful festivals.
A Victorian summer with family and friends behind us, a polar cold snap nudging us north, and rising fuel prices reshaping how we travel. Time to head out again and see what's up the road.
A slow morning in the mist at Warrnambool's historic Botanic Gardens, a drive out to Hopkins Falls running at full strength, and an afternoon browsing Fletcher Jones Market.
Two nights on the Barwon River at Winchelsea’s free camp, and a guided tour of Barwon Park Mansion, the bluestone homestead built to impress a duke, by the man who gave Australia its rabbit problem.
Our favourite way to experience Melbourne is on foot, looping between the State Library, NGV, laneways, arcades, gardens and the Yarra, with a tram ride to St Kilda and the occasional MSO concert.
Cameron is a travel writer, photographer, and freelance copywriter with more than fifteen years of experience crafting stories that connect people and place. Travelling full-time on the road in a motorhome with his partner, he documents Australia’s quieter corners through Off the Main Road, a travel journal devoted to the towns, landscapes, and characters often overlooked by the tourist trail.
His writing blends observation with lived experience, drawing on a professional background in brand storytelling. With a photographer’s instinct and a writer’s eye for detail, Cameron captures moments that reveal the character of regional Australia, from weathered towns and open landscapes to the honest texture of life on the road.


It’s official: Off the Main Road is now a magazine.
The Outback Edition is now on sale, in print and digital.