The Rough Road to Emerald
We thought we’d seen bad roads before, but the five-and-a-half-hour drive from Charters Towers to Emerald proved us wrong. The locals had warned us, “you’ll rattle a few fillings loose”, and they weren’t exaggerating.
The bitumen came and went, potholes appeared faster than we could dodge them, and at one point Zoe had to be held down to stop her from bouncing off the seat. Every bump had a sound like a cupboard rattle or the squeak of something that definitely wasn’t squeaking yesterday.
By the time we rolled into Emerald, we felt like we’d crossed a small war zone on wheels. But the sight of that familiar main street, with its palms and patchwork of pubs, felt like landing somewhere safe. We’ve been here plenty of times before, and it’s always a good base. A proper town where you can refill, restock, and remember what smooth ground feels like.
We spent a couple of quiet days catching up on life. Things like laundry, groceries and minor van repairs (All the fun stuff). It’s grounding being in a town that feels both familiar and practical, especially after hours of clattering chaos.
Emerald has always been a bit of a jumping-off point for adventures further inland or north.
This time, it marked the point where we’d start heading south, toward Biloela, with fingers crossed for fewer potholes and more pavement.
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Charters Towers to Emerald
Five and a half hours of grit, laughter, and the occasional airborne dog. Not every stretch of road is pretty — but the stories that come out of them usually are.
How to Get There
Take the Gregory Highway (A7) south from Charters Towers through Belyando Crossing to Emerald. The 400-kilometre trip takes around five to six hours, depending on how kindly the road’s feeling that day. It’s sealed the whole way, but patchy and rough in sections. Fuel stops are limited, so fill up before you leave.
What to See, Tours and Activities
What we did:
Survived the drive (no small achievement).
Spent two days in Emerald regrouping and catching up on chores.
Enjoyed coffee in town and a stroll through the Emerald Botanic Gardens.
Other highlights you might explore:
Check out the Van Gogh Sunflower painting and Centenary of Federation Mosaic Pathway in Emerald.
Visit nearby Fairbairn Dam and Lake Maraboon for fishing or kayaking.
Take the scenic drive out to Rubyvale or Sapphire for fossicking.
When to Visit
The dry months from April to October offer the best conditions for travel and camping. Summer heat makes the drive tougher, and heavy rain can turn potholes into small lakes.
Final Thoughts
It wasn’t the smoothest run, but it’s always the roughest roads that make the best stories later on. Emerald was a welcome pause with solid ground, good food, and a chance to stop everything from rattling.
What’s Nearby
From Emerald, we started our southbound leg toward Biloela, where red dirt gives way to rolling farmland and the pace softens again. That story’s coming next, once the van (and our nerves) recover.
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Fast Facts
Location: Charters Towers to Emerald, Queensland
Distance: 400 km via Gregory Highway (A7)
Traditional Owners: Gudjal People (Charters Towers), Gayiri People (Emerald)
Access: Sealed but rough in sections; limited services at Belyando Crossing
Facilities: Fuel, rest areas, campgrounds, caravan parks in Emerald
Walking Track: Emerald Botanic Gardens paths
Dog Friendly: Yes, in most campgrounds
Best Time to Visit: April to October for cooler, drier travel
Things That Could Kill You (Probably Won’t)
A semi-serious guide to surviving Australia. Mostly common sense, occasionally luck.
Potholes: Big enough to have their own postcode. Slow down and keep a spare tyre handy.
Loose Cupboards: Check your latches — nothing says chaos like a mid-corner can avalanche.
Road Fatigue: Even the toughest stretches demand a break. Swap drivers, stretch, and don’t chase the clock.
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Five hours of potholes, rattles, and questionable suspension from Charters Towers to Emerald reminded us that not every road is smooth.