North to Mossman
Markets, Rainforest & Sea
Leaving Kuranda behind, we headed slightly further north and pulled up at Newell Beach, a quiet spot just outside Mossman. Camping among the palms with the beach only a short stroll away, it was the kind of base we love, close to town but with a relaxed coastal feel.
Mossman itself was a pleasant surprise. The weekend market was the standout, full of fresh produce, handmade goods, and plenty of character. The town still has that small, North Queensland charm about it.
Our visit to Mossman Gorge, on the other hand, left us a bit underwhelmed. While undeniably beautiful, the experience felt polished and packaged, leaning somewhat more towards a tourist attraction than the raw nature we’d come to expect. The busloads of tourists determined to get their ‘Insta shots’ while being warned not to swim were out of control!
An unexpected detour back to Cairns for a spare fridge part turned out to be less of an inconvenience and more of a great day out! The coastal road between Port Douglas and Cairns is one of the most scenic drives in Australia. Twisting along the cliffs with the Coral Sea sparkling beside us, it was hard not to enjoy the trip. A quick stop at Yorky’s Knob gave us a giggle; some names are just made for postcards!
From Mossman, we turned inland, pointing the van towards Cooktown. We broke the journey at Palmer River Roadhouse, a classic outback stop with fuel, a feed, and a place to rest for the night. From there, the road to Cooktown, our northermost point on this trip, beckoned. But that’s a story for our next update.
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Mossman & Newell Beach
Mossman sits between the coast and rainforest, a gateway to the Daintree and a town with both rainforest soul and beachside calm. The markets brought us close to local flavours and stories, while Newell Beach gave us the calm coastal base we needed.
Mossman Gorge is part of the larger Daintree Rainforest, a place where walking tracks weave past ancient trees, ferns, and river corridors. It’s a space designed to let people experience the rainforest’s power, while also preserving and protecting the ecosystems within.
How to Get There
Mossman is about 75 km north of Cairns via the coastal route or the scenic drive through Kuranda.
Newell Beach is just a few minutes north of Mossman, easily accessible from town, making it a perfect beach-camp base.
What to See & Do
Mossman Markets – weekend market full of local foods, crafts, and conversation
Mossman Gorge Walks – river walks shaded by a leafy canopy, with interpretive trails and guided options
Newell Beach – beach camping, shoreline walks, sunrise calm
Scenic drive to Cairns / coastal link – twisty ocean roads, coastline views
Forest and riverside sights – quiet corners, palms, stone bridges, mossy logs
When to Visit
Dry season (May to September) is the prime time — less rain, fewer leeches, more comfortable walking. Wet season brings lush growth and dramatic rivers but also slippery tracks and caution required.
Final thoughts
Walking between the rainforest and the sea made our stay unforgettable. Mossman gave us both vibrant local life and quiet green respite, and Newell Beach gave us peace by the palms. It’s a stretch of the coast where rainforest meets ocean, and we left wishing we could linger longer.
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