Gumboots & Castles
Mossy Castles of Paronella Park
After leaving Townsville we made a quick overnight stop at Cardwell. The town itself sits right on the coast with views across to Hinchinbrook Island, and while our camp just out of town was simple, it was peaceful and handy for breaking up the drive. Cardwell is known for its fishing and calm waters, but for us it was more of a rest point before pressing further north.
From Cardwell we headed into Tully, a small town that’s earned a big claim to fame: rainfall! Tully is recognised as one of the wettest places in Australia, and the town wears that reputation proudly with the Golden Gumboot. Standing 7.9 metres tall, it represents the record annual rainfall from 1950, and it makes for a fun photo stop right in the middle of town. Beyond the gumboot, Tully has a welcoming, small-town feel. We only stayed a night, but it was enough to wander the main street, grab supplies, and enjoy the friendly atmosphere.
From there it was on to Paronella Park, one of those places you really need to experience for yourself. Built in the 1930s by José Paronella, a Spanish immigrant with big dreams, the park is filled with the remains of his grand vision…a castle, bridges, staircases, fountains and lush gardens all tucked away in the rainforest. Nature has reclaimed much of it over time, giving the place an atmospheric, slightly mysterious feel. The guided tour helped bring José’s story to life, and the waterfalls on site add an extra layer of beauty. For us, it was also a photographer’s dream.
It was a short but memorable stretch of travel, full of contrasts: quiet coastal Cardwell, quirky and rainy Tully, and the romantic ruins of Paronella Park. With Cairns and family catch-ups waiting further north, we didn’t linger too long.
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Paronella Park
Paronella Park is the legacy of José Paronella’s grand vision from the 1930s. He constructed an elaborate estate of structures: a “castle,” guest houses, bridges, staircases, gardens, and water features, all tucked into the rainforest near Mena Creek. Over decades, floods, decay, and vegetation have claimed much of it, but the bones of his ambition still stand. Today, it feels like walking through a fairytale ruin caught between human intent and nature’s reclaiming hand.
How to Get There
Paronella Park lies southwest of Innisfail, in Far North Queensland, accessible via sealed roads. From Cairns, drive south along the Bruce Highway, then turn inland toward Mena Creek and follow signs to the park. Even though it’s remote, the final access roads are well maintained, making it suitable for all standard vehicles.
What to See & Do
Guided Tour — Essential. The stories, architecture, and history of Paronella come alive when a guide walks you through tunnels, ruins, and hidden gardens.
Waterfalls & Cascades — Natural water features on the property add movement and softness among stone and forest.
Castle Ruins — Walk through the remains of walls, towers, and corridors, imagining them in José’s time.
Bridges and Walkways — Stone and concrete pathways connect parts of the property, often partially obscured by vines and foliage.
Gardens & Ferns — The plant life creeping through walls, roots through masonry, orchids, ferns — nature’s touch is everywhere.
When to Visit
The dry season (May to September) is ideal — less rain, safer conditions, and fewer interruptions from flooding or slips. In wet months, be cautious: paths may be slippery, water levels higher, and some parts might be temporarily closed.
Final Thoughts
Walking through Paronella Park felt like walking in a dream suspended between past ambition and forest reclamation. We left with more questions than answers, but also lingering wonder. If you’re ever in Far North Queensland and curious about human nature meeting the wild, this is one to linger at.
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