The Sapphire Coast Stretch
The Shakedown Trip- Part Three
We left Merimbula with sand still in the floor mats and the faint smell of salt clinging to everything. The road north rolled easily past dairy paddocks, weathered fences, and glimpses of sea that kept showing up when we least expected them. Bermagui wasn’t far, but it felt like a small step forward in confidence.
We were learning how to travel without feeling rushed. How to pick a direction, find somewhere that looked interesting, and actually stop.
A quick detour through Tilba Tilba turned into a cheese-tasting session that wasn’t on the itinerary but definitely should’ve been. The smell hit us before we even parked, a buttery, farmhouse smell that makes you instantly hungry. We left with a paper-wrapped wedge (or three…or four) and a firm belief that road trips are made better by dairy.
The Blue Pool was our next stop, or “the Blue Hole” as Neil called it, until corrected by a sign. It sat at the edge of the cliffs, shimmering in that impossible shade of turquoise you only get along this coast. The water was far too cold for a swim, but that didn’t stop Zoe from trying to investigate every splash of foam that came close.
Lunch was at the harbour; fish and chips, eaten out of the paper, with a side of squabbling seagulls.
That night we met up with one of Neil’s old mates for dinner at the local pub. The stories got taller as the drinks went down, and by the end of it, we’d heard about at least three near-death fishing trips and one questionable karaoke performance.
By this point, we were starting to feel like we knew what we were doing. The van felt like ours, the cupboards were just right, and we’d finally worked out how to level it without a twenty-minute argument.
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Bermagui
Small-town charm meets coastal colour. From Tilba Tilba’s cheese to the Blue Pool’s turquoise water, Bermagui gave us a taste of comfort and confidence in equal measure.
How to Get There
From Merimbula, head north along the Princes Highway (A1) to Bega, then take the scenic Tathra–Bermagui Road through dairy country and coastal forest. Stop in Tilba Tilba for local cheese before rolling on to Bermagui.
Tours and Access
What we did:
Sampled local cheese in Tilba Tilba.
Visited the Blue Pool and watched locals brave the icy water.
Enjoyed fish and chips by the harbour.
Caught up with an old friend at the Bermagui Hotel for dinner.
Took time to wander, explore, and find our rhythm.
Other highlights you might explore:
Walk the headland trails around Horseshoe Bay.
Visit Wallaga Lake for kayaking or birdwatching.
Browse the local galleries and weekend markets.
Best Time to Visit
Spring and autumn offer the best balance of weather and quiet. Summer can be lively. It’s hard to beat that early-morning light over the harbour when the town’s still waking up.
Final Reflections
Bermagui was where our first trip in our own motorhome began to settle. We stopped measuring kilometres and started noticing small things like the smell of cheese shops, the sound of waves at night, and that quiet confidence that comes from simply figuring things out together.
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Fast Facts
Location: Tilba Tilba and Bermagui, NSW
Distance: Merimbula to Bermagui – 90 km (via Tilba Tilba)
Traditional Owners: Djiringanj people of the Yuin Nation
Access: Sealed coastal roads via A1 and Tathra–Bermagui Road
Facilities: Caravan park, fuel, supermarket, cafes, hotel
Walking Track: Headland walk to the Blue Pool
Dog Friendly: Check beach signage
Best Time to Visit: Spring and autumn
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