Across the Gulf Country
Leaving Cobbold Gorge behind, we rolled further along the Savannah Way, chasing the red dirt road to our next stop, Croydon. The town may be small, but it has a great vibe and is rich in history. We wandered through the excellent heritage precinct, where restored buildings whispered stories of gold rush days gone by.
Later, we drove out to the town’s lake. The peaceful water doubles as Croydon’s drinking water supply. As the afternoon cooled, we joined the locals to welcome the Gulflander as it rattled into the station, a tradition that feels like stepping back in time. Dinner at the pub was one of the best we have had; highly recommended for enjoying the cooler evenings.
The next day brought one of our nerdy highlights of our Savannah Way adventure: following the Savannahlander train line all the way to Normanton. There’s something magical about seeing the railway snake through the wide-open Gulf Country. We met some lovely fellow travellers, Van About Aus, at the morning tea stop for the train. The train team invited us to join the train travellers for a morning cuppa, great outback hospitality!
In Normanton, Neil ducked into the iconic Purple Pub for a cold drink with dananddaninavan. At the same time, Cameron admired the giant crocodile statue, a jaw-dropping nod to the region’s wild side. However, we are a tad suspicious that somebody may have added some outback bulldust to the size of the allegedly shot crocodile from the area. Less jaw-dropping was the supermarket, where the price of chocolate left us gobsmacked!
Karumba called us on, and we spent a night by the Gulf of Carpentaria. It was a peaceful stop that was restful, apart from the midges, who seemed intent on making their presence felt.
While in Karumba, Neil joined a Barramundi tour at the Barramundi Discovery Centre. It was a fascinating glimpse into the life cycle of this iconic Gulf fish, from hatchery tanks to tales of wild barramundi fishing. Hands-on, informative, and a bit of fun, the tour added another layer to our Gulf experience.
With itchy ankles from the midges, we turned southwards the following morning, settling in for the long drive towards Cloncurry.
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Croydon, Normanton & Karumba
Croydon – Once a bustling gold mining hub in the late 1800s, Croydon is now a peaceful Gulf town with beautifully restored heritage buildings. Its Historic Precinct offers a glimpse into the gold rush era, and the town lake is a quiet escape.
Normanton – Known for its colourful character, Normanton is the western end of the Gulflander line. Highlights include the quirky Purple Pub, the giant crocodile statue, and its role as a hub of Gulf Country life.
Karumba – Sitting on the Gulf of Carpentaria, Karumba is a fishing town famous for sunsets over the water and fresh seafood. It’s a laid-back spot to rest after long drives, though travellers should be prepared for midges.
How to Get There
Croydon is about 150 km west of Georgetown on the Savannah Way. From Croydon, it’s another 150 km west to Normanton, with Karumba a further 70 km north. All roads are sealed, making them accessible in the dry season.
Things to see and do in the area
Croydon Historic Precinct – heritage buildings with gold rush stories.
Croydon Lake – a serene spot that supplies the town’s water.
The Gulflander Train – running between Normanton and Croydon, a true outback icon.
Normanton’s Purple Pub – famous, quirky, and colourful.
Big Crocodile Statue – an unmissable landmark and photo stop.
Karumba – sunsets over the Gulf, fresh seafood, and a laid-back vibe.
Best Time to Visit
The dry season (May to September) is the best time to explore this stretch of the Savannah Way. Conditions are cooler, roads are more reliable, and the Gulflander runs regularly between Normanton and Croydon.
Final Reflections
Exploring Croydon, Normanton, and Karumba gave us a perfect mix of history, character, and Gulf Coast charm. From Croydon’s heritage treasures to Normanton’s quirky icons and Karumba’s sunsets, this leg stitched together everything we love about travelling Off the Main Road.
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Cameron is a travel writer, photographer, and freelance copywriter with more than fourteen years of experience crafting stories that connect people and place. Based on the road in a motorhome with his partner, he documents Australia’s quieter corners through Off the Main Road, a travel journal devoted to the towns, landscapes, and characters often overlooked by the tourist trail.
His writing blends observation with lived experience, drawing on a professional background in brand storytelling. Blending visual storytelling with a writer’s eye for detail, Cameron captures moments that reveal the character of regional Australia—from weathered towns and open landscapes to the honest rhythm of life across Australia.


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