Red Rock, Big Heart

You can see it from miles away, but nothing really prepares you for the moment Uluru fills your windscreen. We’d been before, years ago, but this time, we arrived with the moho, our motorbikes, and a little more time to take it all in.

We settled in at the campground and made a loose plan: no rush, wander, watch, and soak up the stillness. There’s a quiet rhythm out here with early mornings, long shadows, and warm, open skies that stretch wider than you think possible.

One evening, we rode out to the sunset-viewing area, parked up, helmets hooked over the mirrors and cameras ready. The light was spectacular a slow fade from gold to crimson that only the desert can pull off.

Over a couple of days, we circled Uluru more than once, walking sections of the base, pausing to read the stories, and watching the rock shift colour from soft grey to deep rust with the light. There’s something grounding about walking here.

Neil even managed a quick ride in the rain, soaked through and grinning by the time he got back. The wet rock glowed like polished copper, every drop reflecting the storm light. Soggy clothes were a small price to pay for that view.

By the time we were ready to pack up to leave, we felt a little quieter ourselves, as if the red centre had pressed pause for us, just for a few days. But out here, things can change fast. What started as a leisurely morning turned into a blur—a mad scurry to pack up, hit the road, and get Zoe to the vet. The calm of Uluru faded in the rearview mirror as we raced north toward Alice Springs, hoping for the best. You can read what happened next in our next post — it’s a story that reminded us how quickly the road can turn.

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Uluru

Located in the heart of Uluru–Kata Tjuṯa National Park, Uluru is more than a landmark — it’s a sacred site and a living cultural landscape for the Anangu People, the Traditional Owners. Rising 348 metres above the desert, it’s believed to be around 550 million years old.

How to Get There

Uluru is about 450 km southwest of Alice Springs via the Lasseter Highway. The road is fully sealed, and a park pass is required for entry. The nearest township, Yulara, offers camping, fuel, supplies, and tours.

What to See, Tours and Activities

What we did:

  • Watched the sun set (and rain fall) on Uluru — an unforgettable sight.

  • Walked sections of the Base Track, reading the interpretive signs and stories along the way.

  • Rode out early for sunrise, watching the desert wake in soft pink light.

Other highlights you might explore:

  • Visit the Cultural Centre to learn about the Anangu’s stories and connection to Country.

  • Join a guided ranger walk or Aboriginal cultural tour.

  • View the Field of Light, an incredible solar installation by artist Bruce Munro.

When to Visit

April to October brings cooler days and clearer skies, ideal for walking and photography. Summer temperatures often exceed 40°C, so start early, carry water, and check for heat closures.

Final Thoughts

Uluru draws you in slowly. It’s not loud or flashy, just quietly powerful — a presence that fills the space around you and stays long after you’ve left.

What’s Nearby

Our plans shifted fast after Uluru. What was meant to be an easy drive south turned into a full-speed run north to Alice Springs to get Zoe to the vet. An anxious day later, we were back on the road — a quick stop in Coober Pedy before continuing our emergency journey south to Adelaide.

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Fast Facts

Location: Uluru–Kata Tjuṯa National Park, Northern Territory
Distance: Alice Springs to Uluru – 450 km via Lasseter Highway
Traditional Owners: Anangu People
Access: Sealed road; park entry fee required
Facilities: Toilets, car parks, picnic areas, information centre
Walking Track: Base Walk (10.6 km loop) and shorter sections
Dog Friendly: Not permitted in the national park
Best Time to Visit: April – October

Things That Could Kill You

A semi-serious guide to surviving Australia. Mostly common sense, occasionally luck.

Heatstroke: Walk early, rest often, and leave the bravado for the pub.

Flies: Relentless, organised, and out for blood. Consider a head net unless you fancy a snack with wings, they look a bit silly, but trust us they will save your sanity!

Closed Tracks: If the sign says “No Entry”, it’s not a suggestion — respect the land and culture that keep this place alive.

You can read what happened next in our Zoe Update—a story that reminded us how unpredictable, and precious, life on the road can be.

If you’d like to follow along for the quieter moments, the behind-the-scenes stories, and the top secret travel dispatches we only share with our road family, join our Travel Dispatch.

Other updates you may like…

Cameron

Cameron is a travel writer, photographer, and freelance copywriter with more than fourteen years of experience crafting stories that connect people and place. Based on the road in a motorhome with his partner, he documents Australia’s quieter corners through Off the Main Road, a travel journal devoted to the towns, landscapes, and characters often overlooked by the tourist trail.

His writing blends observation with lived experience, drawing on a professional background in brand storytelling. Blending visual storytelling with a writer’s eye for detail, Cameron captures moments that reveal the character of regional Australia—from weathered towns and open landscapes to the honest rhythm of life across Australia.

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An unexpected turn

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Kata Tjuṯa: Walking with Giants