Chasing Warm Waters and Big Feeds
We kicked off our Northern NSW thermal pool tour with a dip at Burren Junction, and it was just the kind of stop we needed. Tucked within a quiet campground and surrounded by open skies, the hot thermal pool here bubbles up at a steady 41 degrees. Perfect for a cool, grey day. There’s a wonderfully unpretentious charm to it all with locals soaking, travellers chatting over the fence, and steam rising lazily into the outback air. We stayed long enough to turn delightfully wrinkly and left feeling looser in the shoulders and lighter in spirit.
From there, it was only a short hop to Rowena, a blink-and-you'll-miss-it town with a big heart. The Rowena Pub lived up to its reputation, serving huge country-style meals, good-natured ribbing from the staff, and portions that would make a truckie blush. Schnitzel, gravy, chips, and grilled barra arrived at the table, and somehow, we managed to clean the plates. It’s the kind of place where everyone’s treated like a local and no one leaves hungry.
We spent the night in Rowena, listening to the rain settle in, the kind of steady fall that makes the road glisten and the red dirt stick. By morning, the clouds were breaking, the paddocks shining wet and green. We packed up, dodged puddles, slowed for a mob of cattle being driven down the road, and carried on—tyres muddy, heater cranked, spirits high.
This leg of the trip reminded us just how good the road can feel when you let go of schedules and soak it all in—literally and figuratively. The thermal pools of the north are calling, and we’re ready for the next dip.
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Next stop: Lightning Ridge, where the pools get hotter, the stories get stranger, and the ground hides treasures of its own.
We’re swapping country roads for opal country — and things are about to sparkle.
Burren Junction and Rowena
Set in northern New South Wales, Burren Junction and Rowena are small-town stops that punch well above their weight—one for the hot springs, the other for the hospitality. Together, they make a perfect prelude to Lightning Ridge and the rest of the outback thermal circuit.
How to Get There
Burren Junction sits off the Kamilaroi Highway, about 100 km west of Narrabri. From there, it’s a short 40-minute drive south to Rowena, following sealed country roads. Both spots are accessible for motorhomes, with Burren’s thermal pool campground offering flat sites and easy access.
What to See, Tours and Activities
What we did:
Soaked in the Burren Junction Thermal Pool — 41°C of pure relaxation.
Camped at the adjoining donation site with friendly locals.
Enjoyed a hearty dinner and plenty of laughs at the Rowena Pub.
Waited out overnight rain before heading further north.
Other highlights you might explore:
Visit Walgett for more artesian baths and Aboriginal cultural sites.
Stop at Come By Chance, just for the name and a photo.
Continue the thermal trail toward Lightning Ridge.
When to Visit
Autumn to spring is best for cooler weather and comfortable soaks. Summer can get hot — think double heat with the thermal pool and the outback sun combined.
Final Thoughts
This leg of the trip reminded us how good the road feels when you let go of schedules and soak it all in—literally and figuratively. Burren’s warmth, Rowena’s welcome, and the slow roll north through country roads set the perfect pace for what’s to come.
What’s Nearby
From Rowena, it’s an easy drive to Lightning Ridge, where black opals, bore baths, and eccentric locals await. The road might be muddy in places, but the stories are always worth the mess.
If you enjoy tales from the thermal trail, sign up for our Travel Dispatch and come along for the next dip.
Fast Facts
Location: Northern New South Wales
Distance: Narrabri to Burren Junction – 100 km; Burren to Rowena – 50 km
Traditional Owners: Kamilaroi People
Access: Sealed highways and local roads
Facilities: Donation camping at Burren Junction, pub meals at Rowena, limited supplies
Walking Track: Short strolls around Burren thermal pool and town
Dog Friendly: Yes, both towns welcome pets
Best Time to Visit: April – September
Things That Could Kill You (Probably Won’t)
A semi-serious guide to surviving Australia. Mostly common sense, occasionally luck.
Thermal Pools: Stay in too long and you’ll emerge part prune, part puddle.
Outback Puddles: Deeper than they look — always.
Country Pub Meals: Delicious, dangerous, and served in portions best shared.
If you’ve enjoyed this leg of the journey, join our Travel Dispatch. It’s the best way to keep up with our latest stories, favourite stays, and the next stretch of red-dirt road.
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