Innes National Park: Cliffs, Coast and Two Wheels
Some days are made for riding, and our trip through Dhilba Guuranda–Innes National Park was one of those steady, wind-in-your-helmet days that stay with you. We left the motorhome parked up and took the bikes, keen to make the most of the quiet roads and the wide coastal views across the bottom of the Yorke Peninsula.
The park suits bikes in a way you only realise once you’re in it. Long curves, open scrub, and that steady pull of the Southern Ocean beside you. We stopped often, wandering down sandy tracks with helmets in hand and boots shifting through gravel, taking our time at each lookout.
Ethel Beach was first. The rusted remains of the Ethel sit right on the sand, worn down by decades of tide and wind. It’s both stark and calm, sitting there in the open light. From there we rode on to Cape Spencer, where the cliffs drop suddenly to the water and the view stretches across Investigator Strait. The wind had a proper bite to it, but the kind that wakes you up rather than pushes you away.
At West Cape we parked the bikes again and followed the boardwalk to the viewpoint. The surf rolled in clean lines below us, white and constant. It’s one of those spots that doesn’t try too hard. You stand for a few minutes, let the scenery settle, then wander back without feeling rushed.
We also stopped at Inneston, the old gypsum mining town tucked near the centre of the park. Most of it sits quiet now, with crumbling stone walls, old timber frames and a few restored cottages that show what life looked like out here in the early 1900s. We followed the walking trail through the ruins, reading the signs and taking photos of the way the bush has slowly taken the township back. It’s a simple loop with a calm, slightly eerie feel — a good break between coastal lookouts.
There’s a freedom to exploring a place like this on two wheels. The pace is slower than you think, the air carries every bit of salt and scrub, and the day shapes itself without much planning. By the time we rode back out of the park, we were dusty, windswept and quietly satisfied.
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Dhilba Guuranda–Innes National Park
Innes National Park sits at the southwestern tip of the Yorke Peninsula, known for its rugged coastline, long beaches, lighthouses and shipwreck history. It’s a favourite for walkers, cyclists and slow-paced coastal exploring.
How to Get There
The park is about 3.5 hours from Adelaide. Access is via sealed and well-maintained roads through Marion Bay, with internal roads mostly sealed and suitable for all vehicles. Entry fees apply and can be purchased online. Marion Bay Caravan Park is perfectly situated to stay for a couple of days to explore the park.
What to See, Tours and Activities
What we did:
Rode the motorbikes through the park.
Stopped at Ethel Beach to see the shipwreck remains.
Visited Cape Spencer lookout.
Walked the boardwalk at West Cape.
Marion Bay township for supplies, meals and accomdation.
Other highlights nearby:
Pondalowie Bay for fishing and calm walking tracks.
Stenhouse Bay jetty.
Royston Head walking trail.
When to Visit
Autumn and spring offer mild weather and clear days. Summer can bring strong winds and heat, while winter has steady swell and dramatic coastal views.
Final Thoughts
Innes National Park has that simple coastal beauty that works best when you ease into it. A day on the bikes gave us time to take in the cliffs, the shipwreck, and the wide open spaces that make the park feel both remote and welcoming.
What’s Nearby
To the north lies Marion Bay and the quieter stretches of southern Yorke Peninsula. Inland takes you toward the farmlands and small towns scattered across the region.
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Fast Facts
Location: Dhilba Guuranda–Innes National Park, Yorke Peninsula SA
Distance: 3.5 hours west of Adelaide
Traditional Owners: Narungga People
Access: Mostly sealed roads via Marion Bay
Facilities: Toilets, day-use areas, campgrounds (bookings required)
Walking Track: Boardwalks, coastal trails and short lookouts
Dog Friendly: No; pets are not permitted in the park
Best Time to Visit: Autumn and spring
Things That Could Kill You (Probably Won’t)
A semi-serious guide to surviving Australia. Mostly common sense, occasionally luck.
Wind: Strong enough to test your balance and your helmet strap.
Cliff Edges: The drops are real. Keep an eye on your footing.
Waves: Beautiful from a distance, far less friendly up close.
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Our second stop in St Lawrence, the quiet town between Mackay and Rockhampton: two nights at the community rec ground, Friday lasagne night, a local’s tour with a mate, and the old meatworks boilers in the bush.