Gorge-ous Days at Carnarvon (part 2)
There are places you wait years to visit — and Carnarvon Gorge was one of them. Tucked deep in Queensland’s Central Highlands, this slice of rugged wilderness has been on our radar for a long while. We finally rolled in and set up camp at Sandstone Park, where the views stretch endlessly over the escarpment and kangaroos graze between the motorhomes. We spent three nights here, waking to the sound of kookaburras and watching sunsets spill across the hills.
On our second day, we tackled the main event — the 16-kilometre return walk through Carnarvon Gorge. It’s a trek that takes time, water and sturdy legs, but what a walk it is. The trail winds through towering sandstone cliffs, shaded by cabbage palms and cycads, crossing the creek multiple times on stepping stones. Along the way, the gorge reveals its wonders.
The Art Gallery is something else entirely. Thousands of years of First Nations history etched into the rock in ochre, stencil and charcoal: handprints, boomerangs, net designs, stories told through layers of time. The silence around the site felt respectful, like the gorge itself was holding its breath.
Just a little further back on the track, the Amphitheatre revealed its hidden magic. A narrow crack in the rock wall opened into a vast, echoing chamber which was cool and shaded, with high walls that seemed to stretch forever. We sat inside for a long moment, letting it sink in. Magical doesn’t quite cover it.
The next day, Cameron and Zoe had a well-earned rest (Zoe made it clear she wasn’t impressed at being left behind) while Neil headed back into the gorge solo, this time to explore the Moss Garden. Tucked away and shaded, the garden lives up to its name with moss-covered rocks and a gentle spring-fed stream trickling over the ledge. Cool, green and peaceful—well worth the extra kilometres.
Carnarvon Gorge was every bit as impressive as we had hoped it would be. It’s wild and ancient, but accessible. And it gave us that rare feeling of ticking something off our bucket list and knowing it was worth the wait.
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Carnarvon Gorge
Carnarvon Gorge is a spectacular national park in Central Queensland, defined by its towering sandstone walls, shaded creeks, lush vegetation, and deep rock shelters. It’s a place where geology, ecology, and Indigenous heritage overlap, with art sites, waterfalls, and trails weaving through a dramatic canyon system that feels timeless.
How to Get There
The Gorge is accessed via unsealed roadways from Injune or Rolleston, off the Carnarvon Highway. The last stretch into the park is a gravel track, so high-clearance vehicles are strongly recommended. From major towns: Injune is about 187 km north, Rolleston about 130 km south, and Roma is ~170 km away.
What to See
Moss Garden – A shaded oasis where ferns, moss, and cool water made it one of the most magical stops.
Amphitheatre – Walking into this towering sandstone chamber was unforgettable, with its soaring cliffs and hushed acoustics.
Indigenous Rock Art Sites – Wandering past ancient art etched into the stone gave us a deep sense of connection to the landscape.
Other highlights you might like to explore:
Wards Canyon – A lush hidden pocket with king ferns and flowing water.
Boolimba Bluff – A lookout reached via steep steps, offering sweeping views over the gorge.
Moolayember Falls – A longer hike to a remote waterfall, rewarding for those with time.
Junction Creek Walks – Easy creekside paths framed by sandstone cliffs and shady gums.
When to Visit
The best time to visit Carnarvon Gorge is during the dry season (April to October), with cooler days, stable walking conditions, and reduced risk of floods. Wet season can bring heavy rain, slippery tracks, and limited access to some trails and creeks. Early morning or late afternoon walks are ideal for avoiding heat and catching soft light.
Final Thoughts
Carnarvon Gorge left us some great memories. Its towering cliffs, quiet creeks, and ancient art sites made every walk feel special. We found it both fascinating and beautiful, a place we’ll always remember fondly.
What’s Nearby
This post is the second part of our Carnarvon Gorge experience—see the first part here for more of our gorge journey. Before arriving, we passed through Bogantungan, a small Queensland outback stop, and after leaving the gorge we headed toward Rockhampton2, where heritage, art, and city escapes awaited.
Fast Facts
Location: Carnarvon Gorge, Carnarvon National Park, Queensland
Distance from Emerald: 250 km south via Carnarvon Highway and Wyseby Road
Traditional Owners: Bidjara and Karingbal peoples
Access: Sealed highway with final section of gravel; suitable for most vehicles in dry conditions
Facilities: Visitor centre, campground, picnic areas, toilets, limited mobile reception
Walking Track: Multiple trails from short walks to full-day hikes through the gorge system
Dog Friendly: Not permitted within Carnarvon National Park
Best Time to Visit: April to September for mild weather and cooler walking conditions
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You can find more details about walking tracks and park access on the official Carnarvon Gorge National Park page.
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